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Brad Harrington


A Cold Dark Ohio Night

The sun sets at about 5:00 - what a drag.It is cold,damp and unwelcoming beyond our front door...we are in for the evening.

I descend the stairs, into the cellar, to bring forth tonight's bottle. My fingers dance across the necks resting briefly on old friends "Chianti" and "zin", but tonight I am strangely moved to dig deeper ........ off to the crates where the "good stuff" slumbers. Forgetting my usual food match ponderances, I latch on to the bottle I seek, but then hesitate. I briefly think of how (as with the season) our mid-week dinners have become a bit shorter and how bottles are not as often finished or appreciated as we would like -- our little one must return to his crawling patrol/exploration of the house afterall ... still,something is so "right" about this bottle in my hand.

After pulling the cork, I raise the bottle and let my nose drink deeply the creamy cassis - beautiful. I pour the ruby/purple elixir into the waiting stems and breathe in the wake (after a bit of swirling) -- this time presenting more powerful black fruits, cedar and earth. I let them sit and return to my cooking. Mary wanders in (little Larry in tow), notices the open bottle and sighs "oh, good". She puts him down and glides into the dining room to set the table.

When we sit down for dinner (Larry with a few globs of yam in front of him), Mary is struck by the scents wafting from her glass. Rising from the stems (now open more than an hour) is rich black cherry, cassis, olive and tobacco. Mary looks at the bottle and notices it is a "91" (the year we married) - she is pleased with her thought. Mary does not know labels and producers, but she has a sense of what is good. Tonight she has a sense there is greatness in the glass.

As dinner (and the palate) unfold, we are beguiled by the rich, thick plum and cassis, bordered by some light pepper, spice, and a sense of "stoney" earthieness. This is one of those "wall of flavor" wines, accentuated by facinating nuances. The flavors are engrossing from attack through the lengthy, haunting finish (40 sec?). The tannins are just a bit rough, providing a pleasant contrast to the opulent fruit. Balanced -- you bet ..... harmonious is perhaps a better description.

Larry wants out of the highchair - his new found predaliction for pulling himself up and standing must be honored. Mary loves the wine... "this is so great" she says as I refill her glass. "Have we had this before?" she asks. "No" I reply "it was our only bottle....tonight just seemed like a good night for it". We linger over the remaining bottle, enraptured in its contents and oh so pleased with our night.

A 100 pt night of simplicity to be sure and a wine I would rate a "96" or more any other time. What is this wine that was previously destined for the insatiable maws of wino friends somewhere down the road -- 91 Shafer Hillside Select -- A beauty to be sure!

Mary did not really care what the label said -- it was just a most slendid accompaniment to a wonderful winter's eve. Wine enriches our lives?...oh yes.

Larry Meehan

Copyright © Larry Meehan, December, 1999

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