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Tensley
Wines
A young winemaker
with an old-school touch
Joey
Tensley went to France as a young man to experience his first love in a country
that appreciated it far more than the US. If
you’re thinking Joey’s first love was wine you’re way off – we're
talking about soccer. Lucky for California wine
enthusiasts, this trip to France launched Joey's interest in wine and his focus has
now shifted away from the soccer field and into the cellar.
Not long after Joey
returned from his trip to France he began working at a restaurant in his home
town and quickly
took over wine-buying duties. While
the retail side of the wine industry gave Joey a good introduction into the
world of premium wine, he always knew that his destiny was making great wine,
not ordering it. With this goal in
mind, Joey moved to Santa Barbara and soon after started working for a winemaker
with a recipe for great Syrah – Bryan Babcock.
Joey became the assistant winemaker at Babcock and after two years moved
on to the assistant winemaker post at another Syrah powerhouse in the area –
Beckman Vineyards. While still at
Beckman, Joey launched Tensley Wines in 1998 with a few barrels of Syrah from
the Thompson and Alisos Canyon vineyards.
Joey's small production has grown to about 700 cases and he continues to
make Syrah that can be served side-by-side with some of the world’s best.
Joey’s
current line-up at includes 3 single vineyard Syrahs from an all-star list of Santa
Barbara County vineyards – Colson Canyon, Purisima Mountain, and Thompson.
The Colson Canyon vineyard was carved out of a hillside east of Santa
Maria and it produces the most flamboyant wine in Joey’s line-up - it jumps
out the glass with dark fruit and spice notes that are unmistakably new world
Syrah. The Colson Canyon is the
only Tensley wine that touches new oak, but Joey even keeps that to a minimum
(less than 25%). 
| The Thompson
Vineyard soaking up some afternoon sun in the Los Alamos Valley |
Joey’s Purisima
Mountain offering comes from Steve Beckman’s impeccably farmed property at the
north end of Ballard Canyon in the heart of the Santa Ynez Valley AVA.
Ballard Canyon produces some of Santa Barbara’s most-prized Syrah (the
Stolpman and Larner vineyards share the canyon with Purisima Mountain) and Joey
believes that his Purisima Mountain offering is the most complex wine in his
line-up. Joey's Thompson rounds out his
line-up and provides a benchmark for Syrah from the Los Alamos Valley that lies
smack in between the Santa Maria and Santa Ynez AVAs.
While Joey’s single
vineyard offerings showcase individuality, his three vineyard blend called
“OGT” reveals nuances that can only come from marrying different lots of
some of Santa Barbara’s best Syrah.
Joey’s “OGT” is named after his son Oliver Gunnar
Tensley, who will one day
help dad craft his namesake wine.
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Joey
Tensley and his son Oliver keeping a watchful eye on barrels of Tensley's
"OGT" Syrah - a blend from all three of the vineyards Joey works
with.
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Joey’s approach to
making all of these wines is simple, he makes the best possible Syrah he can in
a way that lets the vineyard – not the winemaking – do all the talking.
Joey makes sure to work with dedicated vineyard managers and then “pays
his bills and stays out of their way.” While
a lot of producers talk about “non-intervention”, Joey lives it.
Joey doesn’t like new oak, he doesn’t like to fine or filter, and he
doesn’t try to fit his wines into any specific profile.
All of Joey’s wines go through the exact same regiment so that the only
difference you taste is the vineyard.
Joey’s
respect for the old-world also extends far beyond his minimalist winemaking, as
he is careful not to let the price of his wines creep up to the level of some of
their French cousins. Joey believes
that a wine’s value is anchored on its ability to age and his wines haven’t
had the chance to show they can age like their counterparts born in the ancient
vineyards of the Rhone valley. Joey
also knows that Syrah consumers have high-quality options flooding in from
Australia and South America and is mindful of that in his marketing. In a world where the price of fine wine can surge up faster
than the price of Texas tea, Joey’s conservative outlook is a breath of
fresh air.
While
Tensley wines are getting harder and harder to find these
days, they are well worth the hunt for any fan of California Syrah. In
addition to his Tensley label, Joey has also taken over as winemaker at
Syrah-focused Carina Cellars in Santa Barbara - a label to watch out for.
Tensley and Carina will be opening a joint tasting room in Los Olivos this
summer, so if you're in town you might want to stop by. For the
first couple of months Joey will be offering some great library wines that
can't be found anywhere but his tasting
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