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A
Quick Overview of Port Wine
By
Jason Brandt Lewis
True
Port wine comes only from the Douro Valley in Portugal, in the
same way that true Champagne only is produced in the district
of the same name located some 90 miles east of Paris. And like
Champagne, other wines around the world are produced in a similar
style to Port, but they are not Port and -- while these pretenders
may be quite aromatic and flavorful -- they fail to capture the
delicate balance between complexity and elegance, power and finesse
of true Port wines.
Port divides quickly into two different kinds of wine: Vintage
Ports and wood Ports (see Appendix A). Vintage Ports, which account
for only two percent of all Port wine made, are wines which age
briefly in wood and then spend years maturing patiently in the
bottle. Indeed, by law, Vintage Ports must be bottled "between
1 July of the second year following the harvest and 30 June of
the third year, counting from the year of the harvest." In simpler
(and more practical) terms, Vintage Port must be bottled two years
after the vintage. Wood Ports are defined as everything which
is not a Vintage Port. They spend several years aging in the bottle
and, by and large, are ready to drink once they reach the marketplace.
Wood Ports include such recognizable wines as Ruby, Tawny and
White Ports, but also such wines are Vintage Character Ports,
LBVs and "Crusted Ports," as well as the often-misunderstood Colheita
Ports.
Vintage Port must say "Vintage Port" ("Vintage Porto") on the
label in big print, on the same line with nothing coming between
the two words. This is necessary to distinguish a Vintage Port
from the two other types of (Wood) Ports which carry a vintage
date on the label (i.e.: LBVs and Colheitas -- see below). In
general, Vintage Ports are medium-to-full bodied, with a power
and richness not found in other forms of Port. While the traditional
"rule of thumb" is that Vintage Ports need to be a minimum of
10-15 years of age (from the vintage date) prior to serving, this
has never stopped restaurants in America from serving young vintage
Ports before their prime. Vintage Ports can age for a considerable
time -- three to four decades is not an uncommon length of time
to age Vintage Ports in one's cellar.
Most Vintage Ports are produced from a number of different vineyards,
one chosen for backbone, one for style, one for bouquet, another
for finesse, etc. As with Champagne, the key was in the blending
of these various components to create a synergistic whole, better
than the sum of its parts. Classically, the one exception to this
is Quinta do Noval, which produced its Vintage Port from a single
vineyard, or quinta. Recently, several Port producers (more commonly
known as a "house" or "lodge") have begun making single-quinta
Vintage Ports. These are generally produced from their best vineyard,
but not in their best years. In contrast to the perceptions of
most wine drinkers, who (often correctly) believe that a Cabernet
from a single vineyard (e.g.: Martha's) is better than the "regular"
Cabernet, single-quinta Vintage Ports -- while often excellent
-- are rarely as good as the "mainstream" Vintage Port from that
house. Again, the exception is Quinta do Noval, which only makes
a single-quinta Vintage Port, and other small producers which
also make their Ports solely from single vineyards (e.g.: Quinta
do Crasto, Quinta do Infantado, Quinta de la Rosa).
The major houses began this move toward single-quinta bottlings
of Vintage Port to keep up with the increase in the world-wide
demand for Vintage Port without increasing the production of Vintage
Port, per se. In other words, the majors know their single quintas
produce a very good Port, but since it is not the same (nor as
good, in classic terms) as their "true" Vintage Port, they do
not dilute the world demand (or price) for their Vintage Ports
by adding these single quintas to their portfolio. [Note: a list
of major houses and their common single-quintas appears as Appendix
B.] Other Port lodges make a Vintage Port in lesser years under
a second label. [See Appendix C.]
The difference between a Vintage Port from one producer and another
is merely the difference in "house style," in the same way that
the style of a Brut Champagne varies from one house and another.
That, and the specific character of each individual vintage. Like
a vintage Champagne, Port houses do not declare a vintage every
year but only in the best vintages. Certain years are regarded
as producing wines which are more "feminine" in style, such as
1975 or 1983, while other years may be viewed as more "masculine"
(1977, 1982). Each producer has a characteristic style that remains
consistent throughout the entire range -- from Ruby through Tawny,
all the way to Vintage.
White Ports come into two varieties, dry and sweet. The dry type
is relatively new in the overall history of Port and is increasingly
popular in Portugal before dinner as an aperitif, in the vein
of Lillet or Dubonnet, though it is often compared (incorrectly)
to a dry sherry. The sweet type is more traditional and, while
it has lost some of its popularity in its native land, it remains
a favorite in France and Sweden. Although both types can "hang
in there" after bottling, bottle age does not result in any improvement.
Indeed, the dry type is frequently hurt by bottle age as the wine
loses whatever freshness it had to start with and begins to oxidize.
This explains their overall lack of popularity in the U.S. (and
the comparison with sherry), which reinforces their sitting around,
which reinforces their perception of being oxidized, which reinforces,
etc., etc., etc.
Ruby Ports are generally the youngest Port wines offered in a
producer's portfolio. With lush fruit and noticeable sweetness,
these are sometimes served lightly chilled as a summer aperitif,
or mixed with lemon, it is a popular drink in English pubs. Also,
it can be enjoyed with desserts such as fresh pears poached in
Port wine and similarly fruity-sweet dishes. While bottle aging
does not improve these wines to any noticeable degree (they are
ready-to-drink once bottled), there is no need to drink them quickly.
They are very stable and last reasonably well after opening.
Tawny Ports are older, lighter in both body and color, and noticeably
drier than Rubies. Indeed, the name "Tawny" comes from their mahogany-like
hue (just as "Ruby" stems from the bright ruby-garnet color of
these young wines). They are usually produced by combining various
older Port wines together in a system of fractional blending.
This process is different from a Sherry solera, but the two share
the idea of mixing the young wine with older wines. There are
several kinds of Tawny Ports. The two major kinds include those
with no specific statement of age (e.g.: your basic n.v. Tawny
Port, a premium bottling of an older Tawny); and, older Ports
with a specific statement of age. The only age statements legally
permitted are: 10-, 20-, 30- and 40-Year Old Tawny Ports. The
older the Tawny, the more pale the color, the more elegant the
bouquet, the more delicate the flavor, the drier the style and
the more expensive the bottle. Tawny Ports, like Rubies, do not
improve with added bottle age and are very stable once opened.
Older Tawnies, because of their increased delicacy, are slightly
less stable after opening, but only slightly -- it is rarely anything
to worry about from a restaurant/back bar/home use standpoint.
By the way, a "young" Tawny Port is something of a contradiction
in terms, as the name is derived from the color the wine acquires
with extended cask aging. Young Tawnies do exist, however, as
some Tawny Ports are produced by blending Ruby and White Ports
together, thereby achieving the appropriate color. The reason
behind this is that, by its very nature, Tawnies are more expensive
to produce, given the cost involved in long-term wood aging and
in tying up the necessary inventory of stocks in the cellar. Blending
Ruby and White Ports together is a cost-effective way of creating
a Tawny- style, although it will lack the delicacy of aroma and
complexity of taste a true Tawny will achieve.
Tawnies with specific statements of age are still blends. The
age statement refers to the average age of the wines in the blend.
Thus, a 20-Year Old Tawny Port that was bottled in 1994 will contain
wines older than 20 years of age, but will also have some wines
younger than 20 years of age.
Another kind of Tawny is the vintage-dated Colheita Port. These
are Tawny Ports from a single vintage, for example 1963, but these
are not Vintage Ports. Indeed, the use of the word "Vintage" on
the label is strictly forbidden in order to avoid any confusion
with Vintage Port. Instead of being bottled after two years in
wood, as is the case with a true Vintage Port, or bottled between
four-and six years as with a Late Bottled Vintage Port (see below),
these Tawnies age for extended periods of time in cask. They cannot
be bottled before a minimum of seven years of aging in wood, thereby
assuring the wine takes on a Tawny quality. A 1963 Colheita Port
might be bottled in 1982, 1992 or 1995 -- whenever the winemaker
decides the wine is ready. A Colheita Port will always bear two
dates: the year of harvest and the year of bottling. [This type
of Port was once known as "Port of the Vintage" but the confusion
between Port of the Vintage and Vintage Port was too great. "Port
of the Vintage" is now a forbidden term, but may occasionally
turn up on wines bottled prior to 1974 or so.] Also, as some firms
feel the word "Colheita" is difficult for non-speakers of Portuguese
to pronounce, they have gotten permission to use a new term: "Single
Harvest Reserve." To date, Dow and Warre employ this newer terminology.
Tawny Ports are often served after dinner, either alone or with
more delicate desserts that nonetheless are quite flavorful. Shaved
chocolate and fresh raspberries, a mocha brownie, cheeses like
an aged Gouda or Morbier and blues lighter than Stilton. Dried
apricots and other fruits accompanied by walnuts, filberts and
unsalted almonds are also quite good.
The final category of wood Ports are those styled to resemble
a true Vintage Port. Remember that Vintage Port represents only
two percent of all Port wine produced, yet that is the category
Americans most treasure. In yet another attempt to satisfy the
increased demand for Vintage Port, producers have increased the
production of Late-Bottled Vintage and Vintage Character Ports.
Late- Bottled Vintage (LBV) Port is a wine produced from a single
vintage, and is made like a true Vintage Port in every way save
one: instead of being bottled two years after harvest, LBVs are
bottled after a minimum of four years and a maximum of six years
of aging in cask. Both the vintage date and the bottling date
must appear on the label. Also, LBVs must say "Late-Bottled Vintage"
clearly on the label to avoid any confusion with a true Vintage
Port. Unlike Colheita Ports, these wines retain the full-bodied
ripeness and flavors of a true Vintage Port, as opposed to being
a Tawny Port from a single year. Unlike Vintage Port, these wines
are drinkable when they reach the market and not in need of extensive
bottle aging. Unlike other forms of Wood Port, LBVs will improve
with moderate bottle aging. Since they are produced in the style
of a Vintage Port, in that they possess the character, flavor
and depth of a true Vintage Port, they have the "stuffing" for
additional bottle age , but since they are somewhat less complex
and generally less tannic in their youth (owing in part to their
extra aging in cask), this additional age is not a requirement,
as it would be with a true Vintage Port.
The aging potential of Late Bottled Vintage Ports can actually
vary considerably, depending upon the style of the house and the
goals the winemaker(s) has in mind. Those LBVs with the word "Traditional"
or "Tradition" appearing on the label have been neither fined
nor filtered, and are capable of aging gracefully for several,
if not many, years. Wines with no such designation on their label
may also age, but it is a bit more of a risk -- one does not know
if they have been fined and/or filtered to strip out harsh, youthful
tannins. This would achieve the goal of early drinkability and
enjoyment, but rob the wine of the strength and structure necessary
for longevity.
(Mention should be made here of the now-rarely seen "Crusting
Port." This once very popular style is markedly similar in all
respects to a Late Bottled Vintage, save for one -- it combines
two or three wines from vintages which are three to four years
of age and, after marrying in cask, bottles the result. Crusting
Port is forbidden by law from carrying any reference to a particular
vintage and, although capable of improving in the bottle, has
largely been replaced by the LBV bottlings, although it is still
found in Great Britain. It will improve with some aging, say 5
years or so, and will throw sediment.)
Vintage Character Port is a non-vintage blend of relatively young
wines, made in a style to give the consumer the depth and character
of a Vintage Port, but without the expense of both money and time.
They are smooth, rich and round, with no hard tannins at all in
evidence. These wines are ready-to-drink once bottled and generally
do not improve with further bottle age, though some aging is not
a detriment. They will usually keep better after opening and so
often fit the needs of the home where Port is only an occasional
after-dinner drink. (For a list of common Vintage Character Port
brands, see Appendix D.)
Vintage Character, LBVs and young Vintage Ports are classically
served with Stilton and freshly shelled walnuts, although other
blues such as Maytag Blue work quite well. Their more forceful
presence also lend themselves to richer chocolate and/or fruit
courses than described above, or with coffee/espresso. The older
the Vintage Port, the more complex the flavors. Personal preference:
I prefer to enjoy older Vintage Port alone -- at least for the
first glass -- and then perhaps a second with a good cigar.
Appendix A:
An Outline of Port Styles
I. Vintage
Porto.
II. Wood Ports.
- A.
White Ports.
- B.
Ruby Ports.
- 1.
"Regular" Ruby Port.
- 2.
Vintage Character Port.
- 3.
Late Bottled Vintage Port.
- 4.
"Crusting" or "Crusted" Port.
[Please
note: In some outlines, the Ports in points 2-4 may appear as
sub-sets of I. Vintage Port.]
- C.
Tawny Ports.
- 1.
Without Age Statements.
- a.
True Tawny Port.
- b.
A blend of Ruby and White (to make Tawny).
- c.
Older "Reserve" Tawny Port (with no age statement).
- 2.
With Age Statements.
- a.
10-Year Old Tawny Port.
- b.
20-Year Old Tawny Port.
- c.
30-Year Old Tawny Port.
- d.
40-Year Old Tawny Port.
- e.
Colheita Ports (Vintage-Dated Tawny Ports).
Appendix B:
Major Port Lodges and their Single Quintas
Port Lodge Single Quinta Introduced
- Croft
Quinta da Roeda 1967
- Delaforce
Quinta da Corte 1978
- Dow
Quinta do Bomfim 1978
- Fonseca
Quinta do Panascal 1983
- Taylor
Quinta de Vargellas 1958
- Warre
Quinta da Cavadinha 1978
Appendix
C:
Major Port Lodges and their Second Labels
Port Lodge Second Label Introduced
- Fonseca
Fonseca-Guimaraens 1952
- Graham
Graham's Malvedos 1952
Appendix
D:
Some Major Port Houses and their Vintage Character Brands
- Port
Lodge Brand
- Burmester
Special Reserve
- Cockburn
Special Reserve
- Ca'lem
Vintage Character
- Fonseca
Bin 27
- Graham
Six Grapes
- Noval
LB
- Sandeman
Founder's Reserve
- Warre
Warrior
Copyright
© Jason Brandt Lewis, 1997
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