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#315226 - 09-11-2006 17:18:11 Burgs, Bordeaux, a Barbaresco, some Champagne & More.
Noel Offline
Local

Registered: 01-27-2005 01:56:23
Posts: 1947
Loc: Philippines
I have such a backlog of notes it's near unmanageable. Here are some:

White Burgundy:

    Chablis Grand Cru "Bougros" 2000 by Brocard - Bought a few of these from the winery itself. My impression is that it was generally lacking in focus. The clean cold stone/steel notes/minerals/flintiness and austere, well-focused fruit of the Chablis I grew up with were barely discernable. Instead, there was a loose mix of melon, some apple, weak citrus notes and a fatty sort of vanilla/oak oiliness about it. Acid was way too low. Not a particularly bad wine, but I expected so much more. Disappointing.
    Chablis Grand Cru "Les Clos" 2002 by Brocard - Cleaner lines, noticeably more focus, more minerals, some glimmers of cool steel. Oak/vanilla more discreet. Better acidity, better balance. I liked this more than the '00 Bougros.
    Chablis Grand Cru "Les Clos" 2004 by Brocard - Like the '00 Bougros, I bought a few from the winery itself. Similar to the '02, but even cleaner, more minerals, there was the underlying cold stoniness I look for in Chablis. Fruit flavors were marginally sharper as well; and the acidity a bit more uplifting, but I still think it could have used a bit more. Again with somewhat discreet oak/vanilla (which I think should generally play a much lesser role in Chablis), but nowhere near over-the-top. Not bad. I'd try this again around 4-5 years from now just out of curiosity.
    Chablis 2004 by Laurent Tribut - Recommended by Jerome Philippon (Manila's resident other-than-Bordeaux wine crusader) after hearing my comments that I was having trouble finding the "older styled" Chablis my father used to serve when I was much younger. This was a breath of fresh air on the palate - brighter, crisper, focused fruit knit well with steel and minerals, healthy acid, virtually no discernable oak/vanilla. Not a contemplative wine and could use a little more weight, but a nice trip down memory lane. I bought 2 bottles initially, and, after tasting, bought 7 more. Quite cheap, quite nice. A wine I could enjoy everyday and wouldn't have to think twice doing so.
    Puligny Montrachet Premier Cru "Folatieres" 2004 by Chateau de Puligny Montrachet - Bought a few from KL Wines just to try. Very young, but an enjoyable wine with tight white stone fruit, discreet citrus, a bit of orange rind underneath, minerals more noticeable to the back and on the finish. When allowed to breathe, it opens up nicely with added notes of white flowers and deft touches of vanilla. Very nice balance. I intend to drink up the rest in short order and purchase more.


Savennieres "Les Genets" 2002 by Damien Laureau - 100% chenin blanc. Forward spiciness on the nose which follows through on the palate with a bracing dryness and healthy acidity that prop up notes of white flowers, barely-ripe pear/peach/melon/lemon with a faint, yet intruiging, waxy/yeasty underpinning. Very refreshing. No mysteries here, but I can appreciate honest straightforwardness.

Petit Paris Grains Nobles Monbazillac 1998 - Another recommendation by Jerome Philippon that did not disappoint. I was looking for a moderately-priced alternative to Sauternes to serve for dinners at home for 10 or more guests. I also wanted one that I could reduce with balsamico for a sauce for seared foie gras. Jerome really stepped up to the plate on this one.

A beautiful medium-dark gold/amber, nice viscosity to its mildly floral candied apricots, orange marmalade, honey with notes of lemon bouquet which held true in the mouth. Good underlying acidity, nice heft mid-mouth and an elegant finish. Very Sauternaise, it would have fooled me if tasted blind. At the equivalent of only US$42 (current rate of exchange) and its ready availability in Manila, it's a no-brainer.

Champagne "la Vigne d'Antan" (Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut) NV by Tarlant - This is supposed to be from ungrafted vines; the wine was disgorged on the 17 December 2004. I was initially quite excited to try this, considering it was from original rootstock and made by a respected small grower, even though it was non-vintage. I told Juan Carlos de Terry (a Phd in oenology, chef, restaurateur and friend), for whom I have only the deepest respect, about my ungrafted find, and, fixing his wizened gaze upon me, he paused, then asked: "So what difference will that make?"

My excitement waned to a strong curiosity.

In any event, during dinner with some French friends a few days later, I popped one open. Fine, delicate, tiny yet persistent bubbles, pale straw yellow, very bright, dry, clean, pure lines of apple, white minerals, steely edge, slight toastiness, whispers of citrus, the finish a bit abrupt. No cartwheels, no parade, but very pleasant. I suppose I should thank JC for lowering my expectations and, in so doing, likely saving me from disappointment.

Chateau Pape Clement Blanc 2003 - From the Doc during one of our lunches, in anticipation of his coming birthday. I had mentioned to him earlier that I've not been very interested in white Bordeaux since exploring the whites of the Loire and Burgundy. Well, this wine makes a fine statement for Bordeaux.

Over-all, a very fine performance with its fresh, slightly herbaceaous nose of grass, white grapefruit, hints of celery and slight yeast. In the mouth it was on the light side of medium in weight, with crisp acidity showcasing tropical fruits and, minerals and a deft touch of oak towards the back. Beautifully dry. My faith in Bordeaux Blanc has been renewed.

Chateau Ausone 1998 - From the Doc, during the same lunch above-mentioned. He served it blind and both the Stockbroker and I faltered. I maintain it was because we didn't allow it to breathe long enough. In any event, this was a most elegant performance. Great depth and complexity, multi-faceted. It changed, and changed, and changed again: at first, it displayed (to me, anyway) focused blackcurrant/red berry/smoky cedar aromas and flavors (with a touch of minerals on the mouth) - the Stockbroker guessed it was a St. Julien and I guessed it was a Graves.

Needless to state, we were way in error. Over time, this luxuriously smooth and textured wine released virtually seamless aromas/flavors reminiscent of violets, soft red fruit, dark cherry and some plum, with mocha notes to the back of the mouth. Absolutely captivating. It made me remember how good life is.

Gaja Sori Tildin 1998 - A few weeks ago, I told the Stockbroker and the Doc that I'd been craving a seriously good Italian red. And the Stockbroker delivered: an unabashed, rubenesque stunner of multi-layered red berries, earth, cassis, black cherries, violets, some licorice notes, black coffee and cedar. Bowled us over. Magnifico!

Krug 1990 - From the Doc, during dinner at my house on the 1st of September. Knowing he was bringing this, I included among the appetizers blinis topped with smoked Norweigan salmon, creme fraiche and caviar.

An aged Krug is always a wonderful experience, with such depth and complexity rarely encountered with other Champagnes. Beyond the exquisitely woven toastiness, yeast, bread notes lie shifting layers of flavors I can only attempt to describe: small white flowers, fine minerals, the delicate notes of orange rind and apricot in the white fruit; whispers of gingerbread rise towards the back.

Superb.

Chateau Leoville Poyferre 1996 - From the Doc, during the same dinner. My little wine group has been enjoying the '96s from Bordeaux lately (I enjoy them now more than the '95s), and this one didn't falter in the least. The nose was a classic cassis, slightly smoky cedar and truffle oil, with just a touch of gaminess. On the palate, it had a warm, earthy richness to its moderately full body, with well-knit earthy blackcurrant/black fruit compote, cedar, slight red fruit notes mid-mouth, and, to the back, with merest hints of graphite and anise. Excellent, and, as an added bonus, the Doc said it wasn't an expensive bottle. I will keep an eye out for this wine.

Chateau Rieussec 1999 - I served this during the same dinner to accompany the pan-seared foie gras. Not a materially complex wine, quite hedonistic really; and, while the acidity is more than adequate now, I can't tell if it will be able to cut the richly full-bodied, candied apricot/marmalade/canned-peach/creme brulee/vanilla bean for very long unless the primaries tone down considerably with age. I wouldn't bother to age this as it is already a joy to drink.


Edited by Noel (09-12-2006 00:17:22)
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#315227 - 09-12-2006 11:36:18 96 vs 95 Bordeaux
Rick Magnan Offline
Member

Registered: 02-17-2004 12:39:44
Posts: 151
Loc: MA
Quote:

My little wine group has been enjoying the '96s from Bordeaux lately (I enjoy them now more than the '95s)..




Are you enjoying them more in the sense that they are more ready to drink or just in general? I was fortunate to have the 95 La Mission Haut Brion and the 95 Talbot recently and was suprized by how forward and drinkable these were. They had been well cared for but were very much ready to go. So much so it would be hard to seem them holding on another 20 years.

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#315228 - 09-12-2006 15:19:51 Re: 96 vs 95 Bordeaux
Noel Offline
Local

Registered: 01-27-2005 01:56:23
Posts: 1947
Loc: Philippines
Quote:

Are you enjoying them more in the sense that they are more ready to drink or just in general?




I generally enjoy more drinking wines that are more ready to drink, as opposed to those that are not as ready.

Quote:

I was fortunate to have the 95 La Mission Haut Brion and the 95 Talbot recently and was suprized by how forward and drinkable these were. They had been well cared for but were very much ready to go. So much so it would be hard to seem them holding on another 20 years.




Have you had the chance to compare them to their '96 counterparts?

As to some '95s, Haut Brion, Latour, Margaux and Mouton are drinking fine, but they can go a long, long way. 10 years of bottle age is nothing for the likes of these. They may already be very nice now, but there's nothing like a truly aged fine wine. It's a different animal and enjoyment altogether.

The most recent of the mentioned wines I've tried was the '95 Mouton (around a month ago with the Doc). Already forward and drinkable, yes, and even delicious; but "forward and drinkable" isn't ultimately what I look for in fine wine. It's mystery, wisdom, ancience, contemplation. Of course, that doesn't stop me (nor should it stop anyone) from drinking them every so often to see and enjoy how they age from year to year.

I'm not certain if I've already tried the '95 or '96 La Mission Haut Brion and will have to check my notes (age and too much wine rear their ugly heads). I doubt it though. As far as I can recall, the youngest one was a '90.

I've tried a few vintages of Talbot from friends in the past, but do not really find it interesting enough to follow or purchase.


Edited by Noel (09-13-2006 07:04:32)

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#315229 - 09-13-2006 01:55:16 Re: 96 vs 95 Bordeaux
Rick Magnan Offline
Member

Registered: 02-17-2004 12:39:44
Posts: 151
Loc: MA
Quote:

As to some '95s, Haut Brion, Latour, Margaux and Mouton are drinking fine, but they can go a long, long way. 10 years of bottle age is nothing for the likes of these. They may already be very nice now, but there's nothing like a truly aged fine wine. It's a different animal and enjoyment altogether.



Quite so. The flip side of that is that it's a sad day when one opens a formerly great, now over the hill wine. I've also been fortunate to have a few 78 Lafites this year and it's clearly a wine that had a lot more going on 10 years ago. Hanging on to bottles too long is something I've had to unlearn and still have to remind myself about..

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#315230 - 09-13-2006 03:13:43 Re: 96 vs 95 Bordeaux
Noel Offline
Local

Registered: 01-27-2005 01:56:23
Posts: 1947
Loc: Philippines
Quote:

I've also been fortunate to have a few 78 Lafites this year and it's clearly a wine that had a lot more going on 10 years ago.




I totally agree. My father used to have a couple of cases of this and the last time I really enjoyed it was in late '99 or early '00. After that, it was all downhill. The last I opened was around mid-'04 and didn't open another after that (assuming he has any left at this point).
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