Ch. Lalande-Borie 2000 - Opened two bottles of this the past couple of weeks. A charming, typical, inexpensive (around US$25 excluding tax and shipping in CA) St. Julien, it has good balance, respectable depth of dark fruit and cedar and earthy dark spice profiles to its pleasantly rounded body which borders on the full side of medium. This is a very approachable, friendly wine; one I would recommend for those beginning to explore St. Julien's offerings. Good to go now, but should continue to drink well for another, say, 5-7 years.

Ch. Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc 2003 - From the Doc a little over 2 weeks ago. Very deft use of sauvignon blanc and semillon: clean, bright and refreshing, faintly honeyed ripe grapefruit, white stone fruit with mild fresh-cut grass nuances flitting about. A skillful touch of oak/vanilla rounds it off nicely. Nice acidity, marginally less than their 2004.

Very good, well-priced Bordeaux blanc! My compliments to Madam Cathiard - she's 3rd from the left (wearing a hat), chatting with Sevrine Miailhe. My wife, on the left, looks dazed....



Ch. Beau Sejour Becot 1998 - One of my old-reliable St. Emilions; I've long favored the wines of this chateau and always keep a stock of it at home. After leaving '98 alone for almost 2 years, I revisited it 3 weeks ago and, again, last night. It is better than ever with hallmark feminine, elegant, delicate violet nuances & discreet oak whispers to its silky, softly curved, supple medium body and seamless dark plum and dark cherry profiles. It has a coyly alluring "come hither" air about it. Not a "new-wave" or, as I call it, "Michel Rolland-ified" St. Emilion. I would drink this up within the next 2-3 of years.

Ch. Pavie Decesse 1998 - Last night as well, from the Stockbroker. So much heavier than the '98 Beau Sejour Becot (or any other vintage thereof I've tried, for that matter), this is a totally different style of St. Emilion. I understand from the Stockbroker that this is from Gerard Perse's stable. Masculine, full-bodied, obviously denser and more extracted, bigger tannins (though smooth) with very ripe fruit and well-knit mocha/vanilla notes to the back (that indicate "new wave" St. Emilion to me). Very entertaining wine, it demands one's attention. Already drinking very well and, I think, can last significantly longer than its feminine counterpart.

Numanthia 1998 - Courtesy of the Doc, from Toro, Spain. This deep red 100% tempranillo seemed much more animated and more youthful than the 2 previously mentioned wines. This spirited, cocky, full-bodied and big-boned fellow displays its moderately earthy ripe blackcurrant, black cherry, licorice, cedar and toasty oak in a challenging manner. Superior concentration; big yet decently-integrated tannins, this is a rich, opulent, hedonistic wine - one I would never have guessed as coming from Spain. Most enjoyable. A touch more acidity wouldn't have been amiss though.

Gevrey Chambertin 1977 by Emile Bourgeot - from the most charming, impeccably British gentleman, Robert L. Burroughes over lunch this past Tuesday. After considerable sediment cleared away, this was a clear, tile red with slight browning nearing the edge. I always find old wine very difficult to describe; moreso this old red Burgundy - using fruit/wood/spice/flower descriptors are simply inadequate since the flavors have melded so and turned it into something else entirely. Best I can attempt is that it had a compelling mystery and wisdom about its vaguely freshly-turned-earth/truffled, pure, silky red "raspberry/beetroot/mushroom" ancience.

I've never had this wine before, from any vintage, and I know absolutely nothing about the maker. I certainly wouldn't mind drinking this again....and again. I love wines that bring to mind other places and times.

Krug 1988 - After reading my notes on the Doc's 1990, Bernd Koehling e-mailed me from Germany asking how it compared with the 1988 Krug he generously shared with us last 15th of June. To put things in perspective, what I said of the '90 was:

Quote:

...Beyond the exquisitely woven toastiness, yeast, bread notes lie shifting layers of flavors I can only attempt to describe: small white flowers, fine minerals, the delicate notes of orange rind and apricot in the white fruit; whispers of gingerbread rise towards the back.





In this regard, the '88 was more floral in the nose and on the palate; the flavors were more linear and focused. Its acid was also brighter. The fruit tones of the '90 were riper than the '88, and the mouthfeel rounder mid-palate. The 88's apricot nuance to white fruit was more discreet and the minerals more on the surface.

Both were absolutely amazing in their own ways.


Edited by Noel (09-16-2006 13:36:42)