This isn't unlike the BD controversy. I didn't read Dave's column, so it's tough to tell if he's merely trying to counter the current impetus of natural wine, or tilting at windmills, or just looking for recognition in the on-going battle of verbiage. Either way, the "healthy" discussion is both valid and useful to some, if an irritant to others. Maybe the outfall will be a greater recognition of EVERYTHING that goes into winemaking, and a reevaluation of current methods - whatever they may be.
Homer: Every time I learn something new, some of the old gets pushed out of my brain. Remember that time I took the wine making course and forgot how to drive?
Marge: You were drunk!
Homer: And how.