Grai, Giorgio
Trentino, Italy
Impenetrably black core surrounded by foreboding crimson rims, all darkness like it's going to get all medieval on you. Lilacs, violets initially soften the profile of the nose but the sourness of the Italian plum, cherry scents stiffens it right up, follows on with roasted cocoa and peanut shell notes, roof tar and asphalt, light echo of orange peel. Full-bodied unto sluggish, heavy tannic skeleton and even the acidity feels like a weight. Here, though, the sourness in the currant, cherry, cranberry fruit breaks up the monotony. Leather, loamy earth, tar, asphalt, all bass notes until the white grapefruit zest slashes through. While it lacks freshness the sheer forward momentum is impressive. (Composite Cork: Diam5)
87 points