Knoll, Weingut Emmerich
Wachau, Austria
Ried Loibenberg
Gruner Veltliner
Deepening gold color without giving up too much youthfulness, looks flat if layered, the hue holds well into the rims. Fat nose of peach, cherry, apricot fruit dappled in honey, molasses and powdered sugar, the citrus comes across as orange sherbet while youthfully fleshy oddly lacking in any herbaceous snap. Full-bodied, lots of jiggle and close to no perceptible acidity. Starts off with accents of white grapefruit and orange and thankfully here you do get some damp herbaceousness and snap pea. By the same token caramelized brown sugar sweetens the apricot, cantaloupe, peach to nectarine fruit further, round and smooth. Long finish. Doubt this makes old bones but delicious now.
89 points