Charlie: I believe John's roussane is actually his best wine. You can argue endlessly about the reds, but this white delivers year after year and has a lot of ageability. Maybe 2003 is a bit old; I just finished off my 2007s. Roussane is a very under rated white, much more interesting than viognier and Grenache blanc.

Along with Albans, I favor Qupe and Stolpman from that part of the world.