Wine impressions - June 22, 2018

Bubbles:
N/V Laetitia, Brut Arroyo Grande Valley - citric, refreshing, light in the mouth and pleasing.
N/V Roederer Estate, Brut - lovely balance, complete flavors, nice bead. Is it Cedric Bouchard; nope. But it serves well and costs $18. Just as nice on day two.
N/V R.H. Coutier, Brut - two thirds Pinot Noir and one third Chardonnay; 100% delicious; texture, flavor, depth and cut all as whole cloth. Thanks Sherrie.
N/V Cleto Chiarli, Lambrusco del Fondatore - dry, quirky, good and makes me want another glass; I seldom say that about Lambrusco.

Whites:
2015 Peter Michael, Chardonnay Point Rouge - not what I expected; reserved, dense mineral core, quiet fruit, saline finish and quite balanced but as though someone had turned the volume down. Did not open in the glass. I assume this needs cellaring and, from the evident balance, that should serve it well.
2016 Peter Michael, Sauvignon Blanc L’Apres-Midi - while pretty balanced, nothing here says Sauvignon and it has a sour note I can’t get past, even as it comes to room temp. That said, my wife liked it just fine.
2017 Trisaetum, Dry Riesling Coast Range - quite dry with a salty/stony finish and nice intensity. Made for food and good with dinner.
2016 Burgans, Albariño - has some Albariño character and is not objectionable but is watered down and thin.
2015 Jean-Marc Brocard, Chablis Sainte Claire - reduced, citric, slightly sour; nothing that says definitely no but little that says yes. Not even in the same world as village wine from Louis Michel or J.P. Droin.
2016 Saladini Pilastri, Pecorino - a dense but crisp delivery of clean flavors, “Italian character,” and lasting cut. This is about as good as anything you can buy for $11.
2015 Marques de Caceres, Rueda - good volume but on the sweet side; not objectionable but not what Verdejo can be, i.e., Martinsancho.
2016 Cave Dog, Godello - rich but bright, focused yet mouth-filling, with a bit of spice and savory lurking; very good.
2013 Daniele, Timorasso - when opened, so sulphur outs as to be off putting, comes around some with muscat-like influences and something slightly metallic. Not for me.
2013 Coppi, Timorasso - brassy color from a couple days on the skins and, over the course of the night, opened into an expressive and complete wine that was one of the stars of the evening. Yummy but you have to have patience.
2016 New Clairvaux, Moschofilero - Greek grape, California Vineyard; echos of Malvasia for me and not something I wanted more than a taste of.


Reds:
2013 Peter Michael, Les Pavots (Bordeaux blend) - an iron backbone in an otherwise well made Cali Cabernet and a bit of a surprise for its balance and depth. Not something I could drink much of but one of the better domestic blends I’ve tasted.
2008 Vega Sicilia, Ribera del Douro Unico - a barrel sample impression but a wine that makes me understand why some wines can age 50 or more years and still seem young. The concentration is exceptional, the balance impeccable and I would love to be alive when this reaches peak. Special wine.
2015 Cusumano, Nero d’Avola - a bit sharp when opened but mellows with air and is a medium weight, nicely balanced version of this variety with a “ripe tannin” touch of rusticity. Glass closure. Quite nice for $9, and a by/buy the case purchase if there ever was one.
2010 Fanetti, Vino Nobile di Montepulchiano Riserva - Dry, graceful and savory with good structure and balance. Enough development to find significant nuance. Quite nice and about $24, retail.
2016 Burlotto, Verduno Pelaverga - opened thin and drying but over the evening became sort of Nebbiolo-lite; the wine of the evening for me with grace, charm, rustic notes but none of the tannic bite of Nebbiolo. Beautiful, soulful stuff.
2015 Ladd Cellars, Primativo “Musick” - shy nose, soft in the mouth but pleasingly flavored and perfect balance. Low alcohol without any loss of ripe flavors. Nice.
2013 Ladd Cellars, Pinot Noir Nash Mill Vineyard - light weight, delicate, feminine (choose the descriptor you fancy) this reminds me of the better German Pinots. Charming wine with excellent length and may develop over time. Anderson Valley doesn’t do much better.
2016 Plouzeau, Touraine Le Rouge des Cornus - Cabernet Franc from the Loire and tastes like it. It is ripe and complete but I struggle with the green notes. Good wine just not for me.
2014 Montoliva, Due Baci - 70/30 Sangiovese/Aglianico; big, drying, powerful and just a little off the mark for me. Others seemed to enjoy it more.


Best, jim
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Jim Cowan