Antoniolo Gattinara 1978

12% Imported by Banfi.

Antoniolo is one of the important producers in Gattinara. This wine may have included their single vineyards, Osso San Grato and San Francesco, as the first Antoniolo single vineyard I can find record of is 1979.

Anyways it didn't help much if so. The label was quite stained and it was a one-off purchase so I had low hopes for it. Indeed there were savory and forest floor notes but little else. The wine teased you that it was going to be good but wasn't. Drinkable and a little acidic, it lacked any concentration, fruit or richness. I had assumed that it had been stored badly and the wine certainly didn't dispel that impression. This is the second '78 Gattinara that I've had and neither were fun.

The back label verbiage sure does try and create the impression that it is a fine wine, almost to the point of insecurity. I guess there wasn't much buzz about Gattinara then.

I picked up some duck breast from a different place than usual and it was a Moulard - bigger and more flavorful than normal. Almost like a goose breast, it took longer to cook. I figured since it had rained two days before that there would be mushrooms but there were only these really dry stubby things. As much as I cooked them, they were still pretty hard to eat. Along with the newby mistake of getting too much duck fat onto my sauce and pasta, the meal was saved by the duck alone.

Fraser


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