Borgogno & Figli, Giacomo
Piedmont, Italy
Barolo
Riserva
Nebbiolo
1995
$48.00
13.5%
Murky crimson core, verging on black, dull if well-hued orange to yellow rims, you could say it looks younger than its actual age. There's a reduced quality to the nose, flattened out, but can't fault its abundant leather, dried orange peel, to pressed roses, too high-toned for the red cherry, mixed dark berry fruit scents to take hold, presents an array of older aromas which are best absorbed as such than parsed out. Medium-bodied, lovely acidity pulsates with each sip and the tannin isn't toothless either. Candied cherry, raspberry fruit and substantial tart blood orange to lemon citrus keep it quite active. Belt leather, mineral dust and tea leaf lend dimension. Texturally vibrant but the resonance of the flavors is reaching the end so it's time to drink up. Lovely old school Barolo.
90 points