Mauro Veglio Barolo Vigneto Arborina 1996

14% / A Marc De Grazia Selection / Imported by Skurnik, NY

I bought 6 1996 Veglio cru wines - 2 of each cru on pre-arrival based on the low price and the Parker recommendation. At the time, I had nothing else to go on. I had the Arborina first, pre-2006 sometime but because of the server crash here, that note is gone. The wine was a real turn-off and overnight Veglio was a poster boy for all that was wrong about the modernistas for me. Subsequently, I've come to realize that the first Arborina was probably damaged/corked and also that Veglio can make some real nice wines - the 1996 Rocche was fantastic once out of two bottles.

Arborina is a vineyard at 270 meters in the La Morra district, most associated with Elio Altare. Indeed, Veglio is said to have a mentor in Altare.

I really liked this wine. It was definitely a modern barolo but very well done. Too tired that night to remember much but this wine was very spicy, rich, juicy, racy, acidic with well defined aspects - no flabby wine here. Menthol and roses. Some structure. Not so much about the fruits - definitely not a ripe wine. More masculine than feminine, it walks the line a bit between the two. Very much alive, it was decanted for 6 hours. I'm not sure if it got better after being opened. I tend to think not. It will stay at this level for quite a while and might get a little better. The oak in this wine complemented it and didn't over-shadow it. It was definitely obvious as an Italian wine. I think I could have identified it as a barolo as well, if blind. Altare says that Arborina is not a grand cru so maybe the deft use of oak adds an extra dimension to a wine that perhaps may have been a little underwhelming without. In short, it would have been interesting to try an un-oaked version of this wine.

I've always been interested to see how the Marc De Grazia barolos would turn out. This one was a well made wine that had aged nicely.

Thanks
Fraser


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Edited by fraser (11-23-2018 11:08:27)