Wine Impressions - 6-28-19

Bubbles:
N/V R. H. Coutier, Champagne Brut - my style of bubbles with great fruit flavors, lots of cut and stony accents. Grand vin!

White:
2017 Eugren, Viura - bright, fruit sweet, utterly delicious - even as it warms up. And great QPR.
2014 Idlewild, Cortese - partially skin fermented; full nose, wonderful textures in the mouth and good sustain. A complete wine that is beautiful on its own and great with a pasta and vegetable dish but does not reference Gavi in the least. Cortese with gravitas.
2016 Louis Michel, Chablis Vaillons - slowly shedding its baby fat to reveal considerable cut; hold another year or two or . . .
2018 Scribe, Sylvaner - under 12% abv, bright, clean, flavorful and balanced. I’d be happy to drink this anytime.

Rose:
2009 Lopez de Heredia, Rosado Tondonia - slightly orange in appearance and relatively quiet on the nose but complex, savory, tangy and intense in the mouth. Seems to be nowhere near peak. Ten year old “young” rose - way outside the box.
2017 Harrington, Corvina - perhaps not a true rose, this is more clairet in style; dry, savory flavors with structure and sustain. Excellent with vegetable rice bowls dashed with sambal.
2015 Cowan Cellars, Jack’s Rose - also in the clairet style, 100% merlot, primary fermentation over 100 days; reminds me of Trousseau from Tissot; lots of tart cherry and mineral. ‘One I’ve always loved.
2016 Cowan Cellars, Jack’s Rose - lighter but more cut than the 2015; also about 100 days in primary fermentation but much less like Trousseau and more like Rose. ‘Will probably last longer that the ‘15.

Red:
1978 Bruzzone, Barolo - too musty/corky for me, others were enamored.
2014 Katsaros, Xinomavro Valos - lots of tannin but not drying, a mouthful of wine and good with smoked pork.
2016 Cowan Cellars, Syrah - quite peppery, textural and dense, open enough to enjoy but surely has a future in the cellar.
2017 Cowan Cellars, Syrah - way too young. Hold.
2017 Dirty and Rowdy, Mourvèdre Evangelho Vnyd. - while tasting with a friend some years ago, he came upon a wine that prompted him to say, “that’s the way red wine should taste.” I didn’t really understand that then but I do now. This is as good a nose as I could imagine for a red wine and it’s utterly glorious on the palate. Balanced, complex, joyous and world class. Oh my!
2008 Bouchard Pere et Fils, Chambolle-Musigny - the oak treatment has muddied the aromas and flavors and it really has no Chambolle character. Okay, I suppose, but I’d rather spend my wine calories elsewhere.
2017 Elio Grasso, Nebbiolo Langhe - never exceptional but always good; an earthy wine with fruit but a sense of place and easy deliciousness. And good QPR.
2014 Balletto, Pinot Noir Russian River Valley - 13.3% abv, a touch of whole cluster veggy when first opened, with air this is a feminine expression of crystal clear Pinot that captivates and satisfies. Utterly lovely.
2011 Alain Verset, Cornas - no doubt it’s Cornas with olive, ash and road tar aromas, tremendous complexity in the mouth with good fruit and a touch of rusticity, and, great length. ‘Could use time in the bottle but shows well with airing now.
(Aside: I have tried other vintages from this producer and been unimpressed. With this guy, vintage matters.)

Best, Jim
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Jim Cowan
www.CowanCellars.com