Raney, Domaine de
Languedoc/Roussillon, France
Vin Doux Naturel Ambre
Brown in hue, yellow rims, good clarity. Highly alcoholic nose, extremely nutty, cooked molasses, any fruit is green apple, yellow raisin to date, light floral whiff at the end. Medium-bodied, very rough texture. That green apple pierces the peach, apricot, yellow raisin fruit foundation. The nuttiness crests in the mid-palate. Orange marmalade, brown sugar, floral water. Not quite monochrome and now or then shifts all but imperceptibly. Unforced length and ends on a brighter uptick.
89 points

Side note: FWIW, bottle consumed November 2017 was slightly better. Assume a good bit of bottle variation.