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White
Grapes
Chardonnay
The
most popular of the white grapes around the world for various
reasons, Chardonnay wines can produce wines of exceptional character,
richness and depth as well as ones with varying styles.
Typical
flavors: pear, apple, vanilla, oak, banana, fig, butterscotch,
lemon, nutty, pineapple, minerals
In warm
climate regions like California and Australia, they can be produced
in a rich, ripe fruit forward and buttery oak style that seems
very popular with many wine drinking people around the world.
These wines are often not built for the long haul and early term
consumption is typically a good idea. There are exceptions.
In cooler
climate regions such as Burgundy, a crisper, more structured and
minerally style emerges that emphasizes complexity and aging ability.
Some
of the Best Chardonnays:
California:
Arrowood, Beringer, Dehlinger, Hanzel, Kistler, Landmark, Long,
Marcassin, Martinelli, Peter Michael, Chateau Montelena, Mount
Eden, Newton, Pahlmeyer, Patz and Hall, Rochioli, Shafer, Talbot
France:
Bertrand Ambroise, d'Angerville, d'Auvenay, Daniel Barraud, Jean-Marc
Boillot, Brocard,
Colin-Deleger, Comte Lafon, Dauvissat, Domaine Leflaive, Laroche,
Leroy, Bernard Morey, Niellon, Ramonet, Sauzet, Tessier,
Thevenet, Vosne Romanee, Vergot
Sauvignon
Blanc
Experiencing
a resurgence in popularity, Sauvignon Blanc at it's best is a
very crisp wine. Most use very minor oak treatment so that the
bright crisp character has a chance to shine through.
Typical
flavors: gooseberry, grapefruit, grassy, lemony, kiwi, boxwood,
cat's pee, green apple, minerally, flinty, citrus
In California,
Fume Blanc is an oaky style of Sauvignon Blanc that became popular
around the time that Chardonnay became very well known. It seems
to me that people just wanted another wine they liked as much
as Chardonnay and went for this as a result. Personally, this
has never been a style I appreciate.
Some of
the better Sauvignon Blancs come from New Zealand, with the Marlborough
region producing many of the best in the world.
The Loire
Valley in France, specifically Sancere and Pouilly Fume are two
more areas that also produce excellent Sauvignon Blancs. These
can be some of the most fragrant wines in the world with a strong
gooseberry aroma.
At their
best, these wines are capable of aging for fairly long periods
of time, with 8 to 10 years not being out of the question at all.
I suspect longer for the best of them but have no empirical evidence
to back up my suspicions. These wines are very crisp with a distinct
essence of grapefruit, gooseberry and minerals.
Some
of the Best Sauvignon Blancs:
California:
Babcock, Bernadus, Mason, Mondavi, Rochioli
New
Zealand: Cloudy Bay, Goldwater, Isabel, Villa Maria, Nuedorf
France:
Didier Dagueneua, Paul Cotat, Lucien Crochet, Delaporte, Hippolyte
Reverdy, Edmund Vatan
Riesling
Riesling
can make some of the truly finest wines in the world. Ones with
exceptional long aging ability that develop intense secondary
bouquets and flavors.
Typical
flavors: green apple, lemon peel, lime, lychee, pear, white pepper,
pineapple, banana, flinty, petrol, earth
In their
youth, they can reveal a sharply acidic character with green apple
flavors and aromas. With age an oily, petroly character can develop
which is often a highly sought after quality.
Germany
makes the best Rieslings in the world. The German wines are divided
into seven levels of quality according to German regulations.
Generally speaking the quality levels start out drier and finish
sweeter. So a Kabinett wine is much drier than a Beeranauslese.
These levels are as follows:
- Tafelwein
- Qualitatswein
- Kabinett
- Spatlese
- Auslese
- Beeranauslese
- Trockenbeeranauslese
The Alsace region of
France also produces some tremendous Rieslings that do rival the
best Germany has to offer. These are typically on the dry side
for whites, yet can have very rich characters. They tend to have
a more tropical character than the German counterparts.
Australia produces
the best new world Rieslings. They tend to be full bodied and
fruit driven, yet typically on the dry side, though there are
a number of producers creating luscious desert styled Rieslings
also.
California has not
really cracked the Riesling market significantly, though there
have been a small handful of excellent wines produced over the
years. Riesling sadly never caught on with the American market
and most of the better Riesling vineyards have been ripped out
and replanted with the over popular Chardonnay. There are a number
of late harvest and/or Botrytis Riesling in America that are very
high quality.
Some of
the Best Rieslings:
America:
Chateau St Jean, Chateau St Michelle, Galleron, Thumbs Up,
New
Zealand/Australia: Clos Clare, Pikes, Huai, Isabel, Scott
French
Alsace: Lucien Albrecht, Albert Boxler, Hugel, Josmeyer, Albert
Mann, Domaine Trimbach, Zind-Humbrecht
Germany:
Kurt Darting, Fritz Haag, Egon Muller, Muller-Catoir, J.J. Prum
Chenin Blanc
Chenin
Blanc can
be one of the prettiest white wines you will ever taste, very
clean and pure in flavor.
Typical
flavors: peach, pear, melon, floral, honey, sweet lemon, pineapple
The finest
Chenin Blancs in the world come from the Vouvray and the Coteaux
du Layon regions of France, where they produce a very floral and
honeyed style of wine that reveals crisp, clean fruit flavors.
They can be finished in dry to off dry styles along with a handful
of sweet dessert styled wines.
South Africa has also
produced a number of nice Chenin Blancs.
There have not been
too many new world Chenin Blancs that are in the same class with
what France has to offer.
Some of
the Best Chenin Blancs:
California:
Chalone, Chappellet, Gehrs
French
Loire: Baumard, Huet, Clos Naudin, Domaine de la Biche, Bourillon-Dorleans,
Champalou, Jo Pithon, Renee Renou,
Viognier
Viognier
is gaining popularity in the United States, largely on the coat
tails of other popular Rhone grapes being planted in this country.
For my tastes these wines have some of the most interesting complexities
found in any whites around the world.
Typical
flavors: peach, apricot, floral, pineapple, vanilla, pepper, minerals
This is a Rhone varietal
that up to now has found it's finest production in the Condrieu
region of the Rhone Valley in France. Viognier is a very high
toned floral wine with strong peach characteristics along with
a pronounced minerally terrior driven finish.
California is beginning
to have some luck with this varietal. There are a number of full
bodied Viogniers that show a strong apricot/peach forward fruit
character with nice long finishes. A small handful seem to be
able to nearly match the minerally quality that they can get from
Condrieu but so far none show the overall purity of fruit and
balance across the palate that you find in the best Condrieus.
Some of
the Best Viogniers:
California:
Alban, Andrew Murray, Gregory Graham, Ojai, Pride
French
Condrieu: Chapoutier, Yves Cuilleron, Pierre Dumazet, Yves Gangloff,
Guigal, Monteillet, Andre Perret, Rene Rostaing, Georges Vernay,
Francois Villard
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