Pairing Food with Wine
by Andrea Drake

     A web site known as the "Wine Professor" espouses that "with all the fuss recently given to food and wine pairing you would think that for generations no one knew how to eat and drink"  (Matching Food & Wine).

     My research leads me to believe that food and wine pairing is a trend-setting phenomenon in the restaurant business that is enjoyed by a minority of the population.  Chef Ken Grogg of the Arts International Minnesota states that there is an increased expectation for restaurants to provide knowledgeable wine service.  More today than ever before, chefs need to regard wine as an ingredient to the dish to be served.

     Although wine and food pairing receives a varying amount of interest by customers and restaurants according to Pierre Sardo (1), there are a small number of people who prize the hedonistic side of gastronomy and know more than most people about wine.  However, this minority is the opinion leader in the food and wine business, and the raison d’etre of the world’s best restaurants.  Charlie Trotter publishes cookbooks based on the wine to be served with a course.  Lucio Sorre representing the Italian winery, Castello Banfi has stated, "Wine is the lifeblood of food.  Water submerges the taste of food and chemical concoctions shield it" (1).  Other takes a less assertive point of view.

     With the developments of mixed cuisines and the introduction of a diverse range of ethnic foods, the "old rules" of wine and food pairing seem passé.  This is not to say that the old rules do not have their time and place.  As this subject deals with tastes and their interactions, wine and food pairing is inherently subjective.  There are some generally well-accepted guidelines or principles to follow.  There are also some realities of how the chemistry of taste operates.  This will limit the options for successful wine and food pairing.  The reality is that there are few "perfect matches" but numerous enjoyable matches of whom the best is likely to rest with an individual’s own palate.  Marc Meneau wrote in Larousse des vins et vignobles de France, that the marriages between exceptional beings are as rare in gastronomy as they are in life (Sardo 3).

     In 1928 Escoffier wrote that Burgundy should be paired with red meats and Champagne with entremets.  The Michelin Guide recommended wines with dishes in 1931.  A more systematic approach was introduced by Pieree Andrieu in 1939.  He described a vertical approach in which the wines should be chosen with the evolution of the meal in mind.  H e also described a horizontal approach for choosing the best wine-dish combination regardless of sequence (Sardo 1).  More recently several books have been published which specifically deal with wine and food pairing.  There is much overlap of material in these books, as the "old rules" seem to give way to "new rules".  The new rules seem to be much more flexible.

     It is important to understand the taste of wine.  What does wine taste like?  The basic tastes are sweet, bitter and sour.  Salty, while a component of taste, will come from the food rather than the wine.  Much of what we perceive as taste are actually aromas.  These include floral, fruit, nuts, vegetables, spice, herbs, roasted flavors, animal odors and alcohol aromas.

       According to Johnson-Bell (5-7), acidity in wines comes from the grapes (tartaric, malic, and citric acids) and from fermentation (succinic, lactic and acetic acids).  Acidity gives wine its shine or brilliance.  Acidity can also influence aromas.  Malic acid gives wine as apple smell.  Sweetness in wine comes from sugar and alcohol from fermentation.  Tannins give bitterness and astringency, and have more of a tactile sensation than a taste sensation.   Tannins come from grape stems, seeds and skins.  Tannins also come from oak used in aging the wine.

     Apart from the basic taste of wine, the weight and intensity of a wine are important factors in food and wine pairing.  The weight of a wine, whether full, medium or light-bodied should generally match the weight of the dish.  Intensity of flavors in a wine can provide contrast and can be an exception to matching the weight of a wine to a dish.  A sharp Alsace Riesling can provide contrast to a rich, fatty roast goose.  The wines flavors need to be intense for this to succeed as a combination (Simon 11).

     The chemistry of taste and food interactions is at the crux of matching food and wine.  Joanna Simon, in her book Wine with Food (12), does an excellent job of analyzing the interactions of our basic elements of taste.  If a dish is acidic (usually citrus or vinegar) then the wines should be acidic.  Duck with orange would need a more acidic wine than duck with olives.

     The effect of salt on wines can make tannic wines taste bitter.  Tannic wines can also make fish or cream cheeses taste metallic (Johnson-Bell).  Sweetness can make a wine taste thin and tart if the wine is less sweet than the food.  Ice cream is a near impossible food to match with wine.  Accodrining to Chef Korus of AIM, there is the effect of palate fatigue that some foods create.  Highly seasoned, spicy dishes can numb the palate and make appreciating a wine difficult.

     Pairing food and wine is about synergy - neither one should overpower the other.  Trust your palate when pairing food and wine to find similarities or contrasts in flavors.  This is done with the food and wine’s flavors, weight, intensity and basic taste.  Let your palate guide you.

     While many foods and wines go well together, there are some "marriages made in heaven" such as: oysters and Chablis; roast lamb and Bordeaux; Roquefort with Sauterne; Stilton cheese with vintage Port; goat’s cheese with Sancerre; caviar with Champagne; Charcuterie with Beaujolais Cru; sole with Burgundy, barbeque ribs with Zinfandel and stew or game casseroles with Barolo (Johnson-Bell 91).

     Wine and food pairing’s  "old rules" don’t suitably address the wine and cuisine diversity (New World and Old World) available today.  Food and wine’s recent innovations calls for "new rules".  Although some may say there aren’t rules, my research indicates a general consensus on some guidelines.  According to Goldstein (16-17), there are 6 steps in his guidelines:

     Balance:  Use the dominate flavor of a dish, often the sauce, as your guide in pairing.  For example, use the wine used in the sauce as the compliment drink with the dish.

     Contrast:  Opposites attract, therefore sweet wine goes with sour or acidic food.  Subdued, complex older wines deserve simple foods not heavy sauces.

     Highly seasoned foods:  Spicy, salty, and smoky flavors are best paired with fruity, low tannin, lower alcohol-content wines.

     Rich foods:  Rich and fatty foods often work well with full-bodied Chardonnay, Cabernet sauvignon, Merlot, Zinfandel or syrah.

     Sweet foods:  The sweetness of the dish should be less than the sweetness of the wine.  This is easily accomplished by adding citrus juice or vinegar to the dish.

     High acid:  Highly acidic foods such as tomatoes, citrus fruits and goat cheese usually go best with acidic wines such as a Sauvignon Blanc.

     A seventh example can be added to this list- the condiment style.  Think of the wine as a condiment.  If veal picatta or chilled shellfish would go well with fresh lemon juice, try a crispy acidic wine like a Sauvignon Blanc.  If you savor butter on shellfish, such as lobster, team it with a buttery Chardonnay (Schowe 1).

     At present, there are some general rules to follow with multiple wine courses:  dry before sweet; white before red; young before old; simple before complex; and light before heavy.  There is one notable exception to this and that is a sauterne with a foie gras.  A palate cleanser (intermezzo), or a glass of water may help if there is a conflict in the wine sequence of a meal.

     Wine can also be paired with cooking methods.  Think of the difference in flavor between a grilled fish and a poached fish.  Sid Goldstein (17) states that grilling, roasting; sautéing and braising are the preferred methods for matching food and wine.  Poaching, steaming and smoking tend to limit your choices for a successful match.  In poaching or steaming, a lighter weight, acidic, non-tannic wine with less intense flavors, and do not overwhelm the softer flavors of the dish is usually best.

     When frying, a wine with some acidity provides a nice contrast to the oils used with this cooking method, often whites work best.  Wok stir-frying typically produces clean crisp flavors, which favor light-bodied white wines.

     Grilling, roasting sautéing and braising are the preferred cooking methods for pairing food and wine.  Grilling adds flavors, which often require fruity, oaky wines.  If the grilled meat is beef, then tannic wines work well. Barbeque sauce can add sweetness, so a less tannic win such as a Zinfandel, may be required.  The effect of marinades on the meat is important if they impart strong flavors.  Thai or Indian style marinades require a bolder-flavored wine such as a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc or Chablis.  A fruity Grenach or Tempranillo may be the best choice for reds.  Roasting choices can become complicated – generally, meats call for red wines.

     Herbs, sauces, jellies and stuffing’s that accompany many dishes may be the determining factor in choosing a wine.  Most herbs call for white wines, although, rosemary and thyme are an exception.  Subtle mature wines are often lost on the flavors of these dishes.

     Sauces play an important role in wine and food pairing.  Is the sauce bland, sour, sweet, or herbal?  Was the sauce added before roasting or afterward (cranberry, horseradish or chutney)?  The sauce may determine the wine pairing as much as the roasted meat.

     An important ingredient for cooking – is cook with good wine!  You wouldn’t prepare a dish with bad fruit , protein or vegetables.

     Reduction sauces may have an intense flavor, which requires a powerful wine such as a Cabernet Sauvignon or Syrah.  Often drinking the type of wine used in the sauce is a safe bet.  With braising or stewing, it is best to consider the stock or wine used in cooking as well as the type of meat.  Red wine sauces call for a red wine.  White wine sauces and ciders usually call for a white wine.  Stews cooked in stout or beer usually work best with low tannin red.  Consider the intensity of the sauce.  A more intense sauce needs a more intense wine, such as a Nebbiolo or Syrah.  A less intense sauce would call of a less intense wine, such as a Pinot Noir.  Creamy sauces often pick up a mild sweetness from vegetables- consider an Alsace Pinot Blanc, or creamy Chardonnay.

     Don’t forget that sweet or acidic white wines may get concentrated in the cooking process and therefore may need to be used more sparingly.  A beurre blanc sauce (butter sauce) will usually pair best with an acidic white wine.  An acidic wine is needed for tomato sauces or vinegar sauces.  A slightly sweet wine may be called for with a sweet wine sauce.  Egg based sauces (Hollandaise, mayonnaise) often work best with a white wine (Simon 26-37).

     The bridge ingredient concept is useful in cooking and wine selection.  According to Sid Goldstein (14), "bridges ingredients help connect the food to the wine".  For example, Pinot Noir can pair with a variety of base ingredients including beef, veal, duck, chicken, salmon and tuna.  What can make the pairing to Pinot Noir more successful than another varietal such as Cabernet Sauvignon?  The other ingredients in the dish may help you decide.  Some examples for Pinot Noir would be berries, cherries, mushrooms, sweet onions, black beans, lentils and eggplant just to name a few.  Spices and herbs can act as  "bridge ingredients".  For Pinot Noir try ginger, cinnamon, pepper, clove, basil, tarragon, thyme or rosemary (Goldstein 128). 

     In food and wine pairing, there are some easy to match ingredients and some hard to match ingredients.    A few examples of foods that combine easily with wine would be roast chicken and risotto.  Foods that are difficult to pair are asparagus, artichokes or strong cheese.  These foods, however, can pair well with wines from the same region ( Johnson-Bell 96).    Other foods that are difficult to match are chilies and eggs.  Chiles can have a palate numbing effect.  Eggs, particularly the yolk, can mask the taste of wine.    Goldstein states on page 13, that vinegar and pickles can rob a wine of its flavor and make it seem more astringent.  Balsamic vinegar when used modestly is an exception.  Capers and pickled ginger are also exceptions and can work with a white wine.

     Chef Byron Korus, of AIM, believes that in addition to the regional culture of countries like Germany, France and Italy the regional wines were a significant factor in the development of the regional cuisines.  This supports the concept of optimal food and wine pairings.  The regional wines generally are a good match with the regional cuisines of many wine-producing countries.

     Wine from the same region is often a good choice for a hard-to-match selection, but what of cuisine from countries that are not well known for their wine production?  What teams with these countries?  Linda Johnson-Bell (77-80), takes a reasoned approach to this situation and suggests the following:

     Chinese:  Seasonings include ginger, garlic, soy sauce and oyster sauce.  Sauces include sweet-and-sour, peanut, ginger, and oyster.  These ingredients match the sweet and salty flavors – so a sweet, spicy, fruity white or possibly a low tannin red wine for dishes such as duck would be good choices.

     Japanese:  Bitter and vinegar ingredients are common, therefore, avoid acidic wines and utilize dry, fruity whites or sparkling wines.  Heavier dishes like tempura require fuller, fruity wines such as a red Chinon, Sancere or Brut Champagne.

     Thai:  Aromatic and spicy flavors are common.  These combine well with a crisp, dry, white or slightly sweet wine like a Sauvignon Blanc, Marsanne, Chardonnay or a robust red, such as a Shiraz (with beef dishes).

     Mexican:  Chile-dominated cuisine that can affect your palate is best coupled with a spice wine that has a touch of residual sugar.  Chilled, fruity whites, or a Beaujolais Cru (low tannin red) may also work well.

     Indian:  Common ingredients include curry, coconut, cumin, creamy or milk based sauces.  These combine deliciously with low tannin, fruity wines with little oak, like a Merlot, Zinfandel or Syrah.

     Middle Eastern:  Figs, raisin, nuts and tumeric are common ingredients.  These would match well with the soft fruity reds or whites (Beaujolais or New World Pinot Noir).

     Pacific Rim and Fusion:  These are generally bold dishes and need a confident, forward wine such as a New World Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, or Sauvignon Blanc.

     Food and wine pairing is a trend-setting phenomenon in the restaurant business that is enjoyed by a minority of the population.   Chef Ken Grogg of AIM, states that there is an increased expectation for restaurants to provide knowledgeable wine service.  More today, than ever before, chefs need to regard wine as an ingredient to the dish to be served.

     It is difficult for many people to acquire the knowledge of the world’s cuisines and wines and have the resources to enjoy the multitude of wine and food combinations available.  Fortunately, it is a game like horseshoes where "close" counts.  For those who have a passion for food and wine it is fun to play a game where you can always win.

Works Cited

Goldstein, Sid.  The Wine Lovers Cookbook.  San Francisco: Chronicle, 1999.

Grogg, Chef Ken, CEC.  Personal Interview.    12 Feb., 2000.

Johnson-Bell, Linda.  Pairing Wine and Food.  New Jersey: Burford, 1999.

Korus, Chef Byron, CCEC, AAC.  Personal Interview.  22 Feb., 2000.

Matching Food & Wine.  The Wine Professor.  24 Feb., 2000. 
http://www.wineprofessor.com/mfwcontent.html.

Sardo, Piero.  Slow Food.  24 Feb., 2000. 
http://www.slowfood.com/drink/wine/ default.html.

Schowe, Sheral.  Paring Wines with Food. Robin Garr’s Wine Lovers Page. 24 Feb, 2000. 
http://www.wine-loverspage.com/sheralschowe/foodpair.shtml.

Simon, Joanna.  Wine With Food.  New York: Simon & Schuster, 1996.

Sorre, Lucio.  The Matching of Wine and Food.  Banfi 24 February, 2000.
http://www. castellobanfi.com/features/foodwine.html.